The ceremonies actually began Tuesday evening, but Wednesday, September 30th is the big day for the Feast of San Geronimo at Taos Pueblo. There really isn’t any way to explain this to outsiders, so you’ll just have to take my word for how extraordinary a scene it is.
Here is a partial list of guidelines as published in the local paper by the Taos Pueblo Tourism Office. Those of you accustomed to living in what you think of as America might be surprised by some of the following:
• NO PHOTOGRAPHY is allowed. All recording devices are prohibited. Persons who do not abide by this rule will have equipment confiscated without return and/or fine.
• Cell phones and binoculars are prohibited.
• Backpacks are subject to search.
• Do not approach or talk to the sacred clowns as they carry out their traditional roles.
• Activities are not scheduled by the clock, so refrain from questioning what time an event will start.
First you’d have to picture the plaza at Taos Pueblo. Then you’d have to add a thousand or more visitors milling about in the hot sun, waiting for the sacred clowns. (That’s why I’m going, for the koshares.) In the old days, people went for the trading, as this was one of the few times a year when it was safe to come together and conduct business. These days there’s the trade fair aspect too, with dozens of Native vendors and plenty of Taos locals dressed like nothing you’ll ever see in Ohio. Events include the men’s sundown race dance, the traditional foot race and dances, the emergence of the sacred clowns, and the climbing of the ceremonial pole. I could tell you more, except that it’s forbidden!
They’re not kidding. Divulging what goes on can result in being banned from the Pueblo. Googling for “sacred clowns” or “koshares” might give you a clue, however. I can tell you that there are sacred clowns and that it is an astonishing thing to be in their presence if you’re sensitive to alternative realities. That’s the main reason I’m going, to get kicked in the head and lose the white man bullshit for as long as it stays shattered.
That’s fair game, at least, about which I may be able to share a few words.
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Once again – you make me GREEN with Envy John…..the things you have available to you to do, see, feel, and experience…..TOTALLY MAGICAL and only wish my wife and I could see a portion of what you experience on a daily basis……Thanks for Sharing….for now I will have to settle for living vicariously through your experiences and blogs and photographs…..and that’s OK……for NOW!
Steve in Oklahoma
Well, don’t get too envious! The weather’s changing today, with 35-50 mph winds expected from noon into evening, and then we might have some snow showers. I may have to “modify” my plans to hang out at the Pueblo all day. Blowing dust, etc.
We shall see…
It’s windier than heck here right now so I suspect you will get it in a couple of hours (300 miles + or – northwest of you). I have never had the honor of going to a Pueblo ceremony but have read much about the Koshares and their duties. I so wish I could see it. The “magic” (for lack of a better word) in the air is said to be extremely powerful for those who pay attention.
Oh, and there was snow above 12,000 feet this morning so it’s coming your way too
Looking pretty nasty already, but the wind hasn’t picked up too much. Dang.